WHW Day 5 - Inveroran to Kinlochleven 18 March 2009.

West Highland Way - Day 5
Wild Camp near Inveroran Hotel to Blackwater Campsite Kinlochleven
Distance 29km Climb 744m
Wednesday 18 March 2009

I packed most of my kit ready to set off before I went for breakfast at the Inveroran Hotel.  While I was packing one of the Rastafarians came down to the campsite and we talked, we spoke of the possibility of fish in the stream. I am not sure if there would have been any fish this far up the stream. Breakfast was interesting, they were all there.  The other three campers, the two team leaders, the two Rastafarians and the doctor.  The doctor was told to go and do his meditation while the chief Rastafarian had his breakfast.  Someone had been playing games with the boots and the people staying in the hotel thought they had all been taken.  It turned out the hotel owners were drying them out.

Wild Campsite near the Inveroran Hotel

After breakfast I filled my water bottles, finished packing my kit and set off.  The weather although cold was dry and lovely for walking. While on The WHW after a short time I was passed by the team leaders.  I was carrying everything, all they had were a few sandwiches and possibly a change of clothes and so they were flying along The WHW.  As they passed they were too busy talking to each other and so they missed the big stag.  There he was standing about 700 meters from the track just looking at us.  The team leaders striding along and me puffing and panting up the hill.  The countryside was wide, open and beautiful.

Stag just looking 

While walking along I was sure I could hear the swirl of the pipes, was this my imagination or was it the wind blowing through the grass and heather?

Blackrock Cottage

On the path near Kings House I passed the famous Blackrock Cottage, famous as seen on biscuit tin lids, calenders and chocolates.

For lunch I stopped at Kings House and I saw the wild campsite there, on looking at it I thought it was poor, it was on a steep slope next to the stream.  I was so glad I did not stop here.  While eating my lunch a French couple arrived and it took them ages to decide what they were going to eat. Then it took them ages to decide where they were going to sit, and I thought I was indecisive.

After leaving the Kings House after a lovely lunch The WHW is quite flat until it reaches the Devils Staircase.  Just before I got there I met a couple who asked me if I could give them directions to some place I had never heard of, or could find on my map, they were lost.  Then he asked me if I could show him on my map where I thought I was, where I thought I was!  Just like a school teacher to a little boy, what a cheeky chap, for want of a better word.  I knew exactly where I was, he did not know where he was or where he was going.  Anyway being helpful I showed him where we were and I also told him where the Kings House was and that he could get some food there, he then questioned me about it being open.  What a prat.

Heading towards the Devil Staircase

Devils Staircase

It was as expected a slog up the Devils Staircase but the views were great.  I sat for a while and enjoyed the rest.  The walk into Kinlochleven was hard, my feet were tired and sore.  At times throughout the day I was covering 3 miles an hour.  Walking down the bank into the town after the peace and open space I had enjoyed and had been walking across in the last day.  I was now greeted with dogs barking, children shouting and police sirens.

I walked into the Blackwater Hostel Campsite at the entrance to the town, there was only one other camper.  Great facilities, I used the showers after setting up my tent then had a walk around the town looking for food.  I went into the local pub and met up with the two team leaders.  This was when I found out that they were travelling alone and what nice lads they were.  They were doing The WHW and staying in bed and breakfast and told me they had started with other friends who they left at Crainlarich with a lot of their equipment.  I left them and had some fish and chips, followed by a good night sleep.

I had covered 18 miles 29km with 744m climb.

More to follow

Boz North
Details correct at time of walking.

If you have enjoyed reading my walk or found it useful you may also like to read other walks I have done on The West Highland Way or other areas. Please check out the links on the right hand side.

Follow link to previous - Day 4 Auchtertyre to Inveroran
Follow link to next - Day 6 Kinlochleven to Fort William